Apiary Shelter with Configurable Flight Path

ABSTRACT

A form-fitted covering that transforms a garden structure into an enclosed apiary. A configurable opening in the roof directs the flight path of the bees up and away from outdoor living spaces and nearby homes.

FIELD

This disclosure is related to keeping bees in residential areas.

BACKGROUND

Many local jurisdictions encourage backyard beekeeping because of our reliance on honey bees (Apis mellifera) to pollinate crops and gardens. Typical local zoning requirements allow residents to keep up to two beehives placed a specific distance from property lines and neighboring homes and surrounded by a six-foot flyover barrier that is in addition to any fence, wall, or hedge already on the property line. Additional beehives might be permitted depending on the size of the property.

Most backyard beekeepers have limited space and out of necessity place their beehives near outdoor living spaces such as vegetable gardens, sheds, patios, and lawns. Beehives are usually out in the open where bees fly freely around the area. A newly installed colony might start with 2,000-3,000 bees and grow over time to five, or even ten times that size.

During their brief six-week lifetime, most bees fulfill several different roles in succession, depending on the needs of the hive. The youngest worker bees stay inside the hive to nurse the young, tend to the queen, clean house, and build comb. Forager bees make up about 30% of the hive and are the older workers that we see in the garden.

Honey bees are fastidious and relieve themselves outside the hive. The tiny golden spots that are so hard to clean off your car were deposited by bees on “cleansing” flights.

On warm days, young bees conduct “orientation” flights around the hive to become familiar with the area. Orientation flights are sometimes mistaken for swarms because of the energetic and chaotic way the bees fly around the immediate area. Although orientation flights are a sign of a healthy hive, they might cause concern for the uninitiated and interfere with the normal outdoor activities of people who share the same space.

In an urban setting, small mammals such as mice, skunks, raccoons, and opossum are known to invade beehives. Wasps and hornets prey on bees and their larvae, while ants and bees from other colonies might rob the hive of its honey. Guard bees protect the hive entrance and become more active as the hive grows. Depending on the perceived threat, a strong colony of bees might have from ten to twenty guard bees that patrol the hive entrance.

Beekeepers enjoy a synergistic relationship with their honey bees and employ various methods to protect them from predators and robbers, such as raising the beehive off the ground and wrapping a strap around the roof and body of the hive. The surplus honey and comb that is harvested after the bees have filled their reserve stores is a bonus for the beekeeper, as are the enjoyment and satisfaction that come from this most interesting and rewarding activity.

SOLUTION TO PROBLEM

The apiary shelter is a form-fitted cover that transforms a garden structure into an enclosed apiary. A configurable opening in the roof directs the bees’ flight path up and away from outdoor living spaces and nearby homes.

The enclosed apiary creates an expanded safe zone for the bees and reduces events that trigger defensive behavior. It prevents children and pets from coming into direct contact with the hives, and prevents common urban predators (such as skunks, opossum, and raccoons) and robbers (of the insect variety) from gaining easy access to the hive.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

The following line drawings are included in the description and depict the completed apiary shelter and the assembly process.

[FIG. 1 ] Apiary shelter front view

[FIG. 2 ] Apiary shelter wireframe

[FIG. 3 ] Front panel - left tie

[FIG. 4 ] Pattern pieces

[FIG. 5 ] Front roof panel and rear assembly

[FIG. 6 ] Flight path opening

[FIG. 7 ] Large front arch with hem

[FIG. 8 ] Roof and wall alignment

[FIG. 9 ] Roof and wall attached

[FIG. 10 ] Reinforced corners on front panel

[FIG. 11 ] Completed shelter

[FIG. 12 ] Observation window placement (Embodiment 3)

DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS Embodiment 1

The first and preferred embodiment of the apiary shelter is made to fit the classic six-foot-wide model of the “Harrogate Arbour” from Agriframes Ltd.

Embodiment 2

The second embodiment is an apiary shelter for any other garden structure that satisfies the six-foot flyover-barrier requirement and is large enough to accommodate at least two beehives. Although a custom pattern must be made to fit the frame, the features and assembly method are essentially the same.

Embodiment 3

The third embodiment has observation windows on each side that can be used to observe the hive entrance and landing board. Each window has a fold-down flap that protects the vinyl from exposure to the elements. The observation windows can be added to the apiary shelters described in embodiments 1 and 2.

DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

The garden structure that is used as the underlying frame for Embodiment 1 of the apiary shelter is the “Harrogate Arbour,” manufactured by Agriframes Ltd. in the United Kingdom. The same structure is available as the “Harrogate Bower” from Garden Artisans LLC. in the United States.

The classic six-foot-wide model of this garden structure is used for the preferred embodiment because of its size, shape, and quality. It exceeds the six-foot flyover-barrier height requirement and is wide enough to accommodate two hives.

The upper walls and roof of the apiary shelter are made of recyclable specialty light-management agricultural netting that exposes bees to a full-color spectrum of diffused light.

The lower walls of the apiary shelter are made of recyclable, breathable, heavy shade cloth.

The flight portal in the roof can be partially covered to direct the flight path of the bees to the right or left, or left uncovered to give them full access when entering and exiting the apiary shelter. The flight portal cover is attached to the roof with military-grade hook and loop.

The front panel is attached to the apiary shelter with military-grade hook and loop and reinforced with turnbuckle fasteners.

[FIG. 1] Apiary Shelter Front View

Frame dimensions Model Width Height Depth 30336-TBK 6′ (Front) 5′ (Back) 7′ 2″ 3′ 3″

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

This detailed description includes the following use cases:

-   Beekeeper -   Fabricator

Beekeeper Use Case

This section describes the setup process and use of the apiary shelter by a backyard beekeeper.

Components

An enclosed apiary consists of the following components:

-   Apiary shelter -   Supported garden structure -   Wire mesh reinforcement (recommended for lower walls and floor) -   Front gates (optional)

Recommended Tools

The following tools are used to set up an enclosed apiary shelter:

-   Ladder -   Rubber mallet -   Wire cutters -   Level

Optional Supplies

The following optional supplies are purchased separately:

-   Weed cloth -   Wire mesh (½-inch chicken wire or ¼-inch hardware cloth) -   Garden staples -   Tent stakes -   Pea gravel or wood chips -   Masking tape -   Zip ties

Setup Instructions

The following instructions explain how to prepare the site and set up the enclosed apiary shelter.

Step 1: Prepare the Site

Follow these steps to prepare the site:

-   1. Determine the best location and orientation for your apiary to     meet local requirements and to direct bees away from nearby homes,     parked cars, and outdoor living spaces. -   2. Level the ground as much as possible. -   3. Cover the area with weed cloth, extending one foot beyond the     footprint of the structure on all sides (approximately 8 feet by 5 ½     feet). -   4. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to assemble the garden     structure.

Step 2: Line With Wire Mesh (Recommended)

For additional security from predators, line the lower walls and floor of the frame with either ½-inch chicken wire or ¼-inch hardware cloth. Chicken wire is more flexible and easier to work with, but hardware cloth makes a more effective barrier. The term “wire mesh” is used in the following instructions to refer to the material of your choice.

-   1. Use wire cutters to cut a single piece of wire mesh 12 ½ feet     long x 48 inches wide. Along the upper and lower edges of the wire     mesh, measure 45 inches from each end and mark with masking tape. At     the lower edge of the wire mesh, cut an 18-inch slit at each marked     location. -   2. Loosely fold up the lower 18 inches of wire mesh. Then, wrap the     wire mesh around the lower inside wall of the frame. -   3. Use zip ties to attach the wire mesh along the horizontal beam     that run 30 inches from the ground around the frame. At each front     post, fold the edge of the wire mesh toward the outside so the rough     edge will not be exposed from inside the apiary. Then, zip-tie the     wire mesh to the front posts at the horizontal beam and every few     inches to the bottom of the post. -   4. Rotate the ends of each zip tie to the inside of the apiary and     trim so they will not snag when the apiary shelter is pulled over     the frame. -   5. Inside the apiary, spread out the excess wire mesh where the wall     meets the ground to protect the perimeter. -   6. Cut an additional piece of wire mesh (6 feet x 3 feet, 3 inches)     to cover the floor of the apiary from the front threshold to the     back wall. -   7. Secure the wire mesh with ground staples and flatten with a     mallet. -   8. Cover the ground inside the apiary and around the perimeter with     pea gravel or wood chips.

Step 3: Place the Apiary Shelter Over the Garden Structure

Follow these steps to place the apiary shelter over the garden structure and attach it to the frame. It is recommended to have two people available to complete this step, as follows:

-   Person (A) climbs the ladder and attaches the shelter to the frame. -   Person (B) hands up the material and adjusts the shelter.

-   1. Remove the apiary shelter from the bag and unfold. Remove the     front panel and set aside. -   2. Find the black anchor tab behind the large arch that marks the     center front at the top of the frame. Roll the rest of the shelter     from the rear up to the tab to make it manageable. The tab should be     on the underside of the free edge of the roll.

[FIG. 2] Apiary shelter wireframe

-   3. Person (A): Climb the ladder at the center front of the frame. -   4. Person (B): Lean the rolled-up shelter against the side of the     frame (with the free edge toward the front and the tab on the     underside). Then, slide the roll up toward the top of the shelter. -   5. Person (A): Place the rolled-up shelter across the top of the     frame and attach the anchor tab to the beam at the top of the arch.     Push the rest of the rolled-up shelter toward the back of the frame     to loosely unfurl the fabric. Then, pull down the large arch to fit     over the front of the frame. -   6. Person (B): Pull down the sides of the apiary and adjust as     needed. The seams of the apiary line up with the posts and beams of     the frame. -   7. Move the ladder inside the apiary and adjust the top and rear     arch into position. Then starting at the rear wall and working     toward the front on each side, attach the anchor tabs to the     vertical posts. -   8. From the inside of the apiary, adjust the flight path cover to     the right or left as needed. To give the bees full access from the     center, remove the flight path cover and leave the full width of the     portal open. -   9. Align the hook and loop that runs up each side of the front     opening with the front of each vertical post. Make sure that the     bottom edge of the front arch is straight. -   10. Wrap the extended edge around the front post on each side and     snap in place. If you installed wire mesh, you might need to clip it     with wire cutters to make room for the snaps. -   11. Use zip ties if needed to line up the apiary seams with the     frame and to secure the apiary shelter to the frame. The apiary     shelter should fit without sagging. -   12. Pound garden staples or tent stakes into the grommets along the     bottom hem to anchor the apiary shelter to the ground. The hem is     long enough to overlap the ground and to accommodate slight     differences in elevation.

Step 4: Attach Front Panel

Follow these steps to attach the front panel to the enclosed apiary:

-   1. Attach the front panel over the entrance and press in place at     the sides and top. -   2. Secure the turnbuckle bolts at the sides and top. -   3. To open the apiary, loosely gather the front panel to either side     and fasten with the tie-back strap.

[FIG. 3] Front Panel - Left Tie Installing Front Gates (Optional)

For additional security from predators, place a set of light-weight gates across the front of the apiary. Home improvement stores have a variety of easy-to-install fencing and gate systems that do not require a concrete foundation, such as those from Yardlink. The gates can be made either of metal or wood and lined with the same wire mesh that is used to reinforce the apiary.

Positioning the Beehive

Place your first beehive on either side of the apiary, leaving room for a second hive on the other side. Bees “lock in” their location and the hive cannot be easily moved once established. The side of the hive with the entrance and landing board should be toward the back wall of the apiary. The front of the hive with the inspection drawer can be close to the front panel. Allow enough room between the hive and the apiary walls to remove weeds and debris with a hoe or small rake.

Configuring the Flight Path

The opening in the roof directs bees to fly overhead and can be configured to left, right, or center. Bees naturally fly up and out through the opening in the roof and quickly learn to return the same way. While the bees are learning to navigate through the roof, you can fold down a corner of the front panel to provide an alternate route.

Providing a Water Source

A half whiskey barrel pond with a solar pump, couple of plants, a few mosquito fish, and some nutritious algae makes a good water source for a colony of bees. To keep your outdoor living space clear of bees, place their water source where the bees won’t cross your path as they haul water back to the hive. Because bees from other hives might discover the water source, it is best to place it a moderate distance from the apiary.

Installing a Package of Bees

As a convenience, set up a folding table in front of the apiary to use as a workspace when you are installing bees or inspecting the hive. (A four-foot aluminum camping table is good solution.)

Follow these steps to install a package of bees inside the enclosed apiary:

-   1. Suit up and have your tools and smoker ready. -   2. Open the half of the front panel that is farthest from the hive.     This will leave the hive enclosed on three sides, and you will be     able to come and go as needed.

Important: Do not let your smoker come in contact with the apiary shelter at any time. Because of the limited space inside the apiary, keep the smoker outside and a few feet away after you smoke the bees. As a safety measure, consider keeping your smoker in a coal hod (which is like an oblong bucket with a handle) to make it easy to carry and to prevent it from coming in contact with anything that will burn or melt.

If your bees escaped the crate during transit and are loose inside a bag or box, do the following:

3. Take the bees into the apiary with the tools you need, and seal the front panel shut behind you. The bees can fly freely inside the apiary as you complete the installation.

Note: In such a situation, it might be better to use a little sugar water spray to calm the bees, rather than a smoker. If you do use a smoker, keep it in a coal hod a few feet away from the apiary.

-   4. Whenever you leave the apiary, close the front panel behind you. -   5. If some bees escape into your yard, wait until the bees inside     the apiary calm down. Then, open half of the front panel closest to     the hive. The bees will follow the scent and find their way in. -   6. When the bees are settled inside the apiary, close and seal the     front panel. Then, fold down a quarter section of the upper-corner     closest to the hive. -   7. Over the next few days, gradually reduce the size of the corner     opening until only a small portion of the top corner is folded down. -   8. After the bees learn to enter and exit through the opening in the     roof, you can keep the corner flap closed.

Fabricator Use Case

The materials and techniques used to create an apiary shelter are designed to withstand tension and exposure to the elements.

Equipment

The following equipment is needed to cut and assemble the apiary shelter:

-   A heavy-duty walking-foot sewing machine that can produce both a     straight stitch and four-point zigzag stitch, or comparable     heavy-duty stitch. (The four-point zigzag stitch is traditionally     used in sail making.) -   Hot cutter -   Snap/grommet tool -   Large heat-resistant cutting surface (a silicone sheet works well) -   Pattern-making material, such as Canvex^(®) II

Fabric

All fabric used for the apiary shelter is UV-resistant and recyclable.

Roof and Upper Walls

The roof and upper walls of the apiary shelter are made of specialty agricultural netting that exposes bees to the full color spectrum of diffused sunlight.

Recommended: ChromatiNet^(®) Perl Leno Net 20%, or comparable. This fabric is 12 feet wide and is available by the roll or linear foot. The upper walls, roof, and optional observation windows for five apiary shelters can be cut from a 65-foot length of fabric.

Lower Walls

The lower walls of the apiary shelter are made of heavy shade cloth.

Recommended: Coolaroo™ 90% UV resistant, heritage green shade cloth, or comparable. This fabric is 12 feet wide and is available by the roll or linear foot. The lower walls for five apiary shelters can be cut from a 50-foot length of fabric.

Observation Windows

The observation windows are made of marine-grade 20-30 gauge clear vinyl.

Recommended: Plastipane 20 Gauge Vinyl Window Material, or comparable. This material is 54 inches wide and is sold by the yard. Observation windows for five apiary shelters can be cut from 2 ¼ yards of vinyl.

[Fabric required to produce five apiary shelters] Roof and upper walls: 12 feet wide 65-foot length Lower walls: 12 feet wide 50-foot length Observation windows: 54 inches wide 2 ¼ yards

Notions

All notions, including thread, hook and loop, and fasteners are designed for long-term outdoor use and with military specifications, if available. The following notions are required for one apiary shelter:

-   1 8-ounce spool of clear UV-resistant PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene)     thread, and pre-wound bobbins, if available. -   6 yards of 2-inch wide white military-grade sew-on hook and loop, or     comparable (for front panel) -   2 yards of 1-inch wide white military-grade sew-on hook and loop, or     comparable (for roof portal) -   (Optional) 3 yards of 1-inch wide white military-grade sew-on hook     and loop, or comparable (for observation windows) -   1 yard of black Velcro^(®) One Wrap^(®), or comparable for anchor     straps -   2 yards of white 1-inch webbing for tie-back straps -   ¾ yard of boning to reinforce upper corners of front panel -   1-inch adjustable white webbing slider -   11 black oxide turnbuckle fasteners for front panel -   4 black oxide turnbuckle fasteners for observation windows     (optional) -   12 snaps with ¼ inch post (6 forest green and 6 white) -   8 black grommets for tent stakes -   1 roll of ¼ inch Super Seamstick/Hi Tack basting tape, or comparable -   1 package of ½ inch removable adhesive dots

Pattern

The following process can be used to create a form-fitting pattern for any garden structure.

Pattern Supplies

The following supplies can be used to make a form-fitting pattern for any garden structure:

-   Heavy disposable paper drop cloth -   Masking tape -   Felt pen -   Pattern-making material such as Canvex^(®) II

Pattern Making Instructions

Follow these steps to create a form-fitted pattern for a garden structure:

-   1. Measure each section of the frame and cut pattern pieces of the     approximate size out of a heavy disposable paper drop cloth. -   2. Tape each pattern on the frame and trace each section at the     midline along the supporting beams with a felt pen. -   3. Redraw each pattern piece and add a ½-inch seam allowance. To     create a permanent pattern that can be used with a hot knife, recut     each pattern piece out of Canvex® II or similar material. -   4. Label each piece and transfer markings.

Roof Pattern

The following pattern pieces are used for the roof of the preferred embodiment of the apiary shelter:

-   A - Rear Roof Panel (cut 1 on fold) -   B - Small Arch (cut 1 on fold) -   C - Front Roof Panel (cut 1 on fold) -   D - Flight Path Cover (cut 1) -   E - Large Arch (cut 1 on fold)

Wall Pattern

The following pattern pieces are used for the walls of the preferred embodiment of the apiary shelter:

-   F- Upper Wall (cut 1 on fold) -   G-Lower Wall (cut 1 on fold)

Front Panel Pattern

The following pattern pieces are used for the front panel of the preferred embodiment of the apiary shelter:

-   H- Upper Panel (cut 1 on fold) -   I -Lower Panel (cut 1 on fold)

Observation Windows

Use the following pattern pieces for the observation windows described in Embodiment 3:

-   2A - Observation Window (cut 2 of clear vinyl) -   2B - Window Flap (cut 2 of the same netting that is used for the     upper walls)

[FIG. 4] Pattern pieces Assembly Instructions Step 1: Lay Out and Cut Pattern

Follow these steps to lay out and cut the pattern pieces for the apiary shelter:

-   1. Lay out the pattern pieces as follows: -   2. Use a hot knife with cutting foot to cut each pattern piece.     -   Roof (A-E), upper wall (F), (H) upper-front panel and         observation window covers (2B) if used, of specialty         agricultural netting.     -   Lower wall (G) and lower front panel (I) of heavy shade cloth.     -   Observation windows (2A) if used, of clear vinyl.

Step 2: Assemble Roof

Follow these steps to assemble the roof. All seams are overlapped and basted with Seamstick. Tension-bearing seams are sewn once with a four-point zig zag stitch or comparable heavy-duty stitch.

[FIG. 5] Front roof panel and rear arch assembly

-   1. Mark the center of Rear Roof Panel (A) with an adhesive dot. -   2. Fold Small Arch (B) in half and on the right side of the fabric,     mark the center (top and bottom) with an adhesive dot. -   3. With right sides facing up, line up the center seam of Rear Roof     Panel (A) with the top center of Small Arch (B), with the raw edge     facing the arch. Baste in place. Use a four-point zigzag stitch or     comparable heavy-duty stitch to sew Small Arch (B) to Rear Roof     Panel (A). -   4. Mark the center of Front Roof Panel (C) with an adhesive dot on     long edge. -   5. Line up the center of Front Roof Panel (C) with the center of     Rear Roof Panel (A). Baste a ½-inch overlapped seam with the raw     edge facing toward the rear. Sew with a four-point zigzag stitch or     comparable heavy-duty stitch.

Step 3: Finish Flight Path

Follow these steps to finish the flight path opening in the roof.

[FIG. 6] Flight path opening

-   1. Cut the following pieces of hook and loop for the flight path     opening:     -   18 inches (cut 2)     -   36 inches (cut 2) -   2. Peel apart and set the fuzzy strips aside. You will use them     later for the flight path cover. -   3. On Rear Roof Panel (A), attach the hook and loop, scratchy side     up, to the inside of the flight path opening. (Placing the panel     from the inside of the apiary makes it easier to change its position     if necessary.)     -   a. Align each 36-inch strip of hook and loop with the center top         of Rear Roof Panel (A). Baste over the seams on each side. Sew         with a straight stitch along both edges of the hook and loop.     -   b. Baste the 18-inch strips of hook and loop to the right and         left sides to create an enclosed rectangle with the ends of the         short strips overlapping the ends of the long strips. Sew with a         straight stitch along both edges of the hook and loop.     -   c. To create the flight path opening, carefully cut away the         fabric close to the edge of the hook and loop. -   4. On Flight Path Cover (E), fold under ½-inch seam allowance to the     wrong side. Baste the fuzzy strips of hook and loop which were set     aside earlier, close to the edge and covering the seam on all four     sides. Use a straight stitch to sew along both edges of the hook and     loop. -   5. On the inside of the roof, place the finished Flight Path     Cover (E) on either side of the flight path opening. Then, press     around the edges to attach the cover to the roof.

Step 4: Attach Large Front Arch

Follow these steps to attach the large front arch to the front roof panel.

[FIG. 7] Large front arch with hem

-   1. Fold the bottom 1-inch edge of the Large Arch (D) toward the     outside to create a hem. Baste in place. -   2. With right sides facing up, line up on center and baste Large     Arch (D) to the front roof panel in an overlap seam with the raw     edge facing toward the back. Sew with a four-point zigzag stitch or     comparable heavy-duty stitch.

Step 5: Assemble Upper and Lower Walls

Follow these steps to connect the upper and lower walls.

-   1. On the wrong side of the lower wall (G), fold up a 3-inch hem and     baste. Sew with a straight top stitch. -   2. With right sides together, baste Upper Wall (F) to Lower Wall     (G). Sew with a straight stitch to make a ¾-inch seam. -   3. Use a hot knife and straight edge to trim ¼ inch from edge of     seam and to seal the edges. -   4. Fold down the sealed ½ inch seam and baste in place. -   5. Sew with a double-straight stitch.

Step 6: Mark Anchor Points

Follow these steps to mark location of the rear, side, and front posts of the structure.

-   1. With right sides together, fold the large, joined wall in half     along the back center line. Mark the center back at the top, middle     seam, and hem with adhesive dots on the wrong side of the material. -   2. Measuring out from the center back of the wall on each side, mark     the location of the rear, side, and front posts at the top, middle     seam, and hem with adhesive dots:     -   To mark the location of the rear posts, measure 30 ½ inches from         the center back to the right and left. Place an adhesive dot 1         inch from the top, at the middle seam, and hem along that line.     -   To mark the location of the middle post on each side, measure 20         inches from the rear post on the right and left. Place an         adhesive dot 1 inch from the top, at the middle seam, and hem         along that line.     -   To mark the location of the front post on each side, measure 24         inches from the middle post on the right and left. Place an         adhesive dot 1 inch from the top, at the middle seam, and hem         along that line. -   3. Use the grommet tool to insert 8 grommets 1 inch above the bottom     hem as shown in the diagram. Place one grommet in the center of each     side panel and four across the back.

Step 6a: Observation Windows (Optional)

See the instructions at the end of this section to add an observation window on each side.

Step 7: Attach Roof to Walls

Follow these steps to attach the roof to the walls of the apiary shelter.

[FIG. 8] Roof and Wall Alignment

-   1. With right sides up, line up the center bottom edge of the rear     arch with the center top of the back wall, with the roof overlapping     the wall by ½ inch. -   2. Starting from the center back, baste the roof assembly to the     back wall, lining up the seams with the reference marks to create an     overlapped seam. Work your way to the front edge on each side.     Adjust the corner intersection between the top wall and large arch     as needed. The front edge of each side extends past the front posts. -   3. Sew the wall to the top assembly with a double-straight top     stitch.

[FIG. 9] Roof and Wall Attached Step 8: Attach Anchor Straps

Follow these steps to attach the anchor straps to the shelter. The anchor straps are used to line up and secure the cover at front top and back as it’s slipped over the frame.

-   1. Use the hot cutter to cut nine 3-inch pieces of black Velcro®     One-Wrap® straps. -   2. Refer to the markings on the pattern and adhesive dots, and on     the inside of the shelter, baste the straps at the key anchor points     on the roof and walls. -   3. Sew with a box-x stitch in the center of each strap.

Step 9: Finish Front Opening

Follow these steps to finish the front opening:

-   1. On each side of the front opening, fold back the extending flaps     and baste at the large arch in each upper corner. -   2. Cut two 3-foot pieces of 1-inch webbing with the hot cutter to     seal the ends. -   3. Attach a webbing slider to one end of each strap and sew with a     box-x stitch. -   4. On the front post line, center each strap horizontally halfway up     the front opening, with the slider-end toward the center. Baste and     sew with a box-x stitch. -   5. Cut two strips of hook and loop the height of the front opening,     plus 1 inch. Baste the scratchy side of the hook and loop along the     front post line on the left and right edges starting at the bottom     of the hem, over the strap, and extending 1 inch past the lower edge     of Large Arch (D). Sew along both edges with a straight stitch. -   6. Cut a 6-foot 2-inch length of hook and loop for the top of the     front opening. Starting on the left side, ½ - inch above the lower     edge of Large Arch (D), baste the scratchy side of the hook and loop     across the top of the front opening, overlapping the vertical strips     on each side. Sew along all four edges with a straight stitch across     the top, pivoting at each corner of the strip. -   7. On each side of the front opening, install snaps to secure the     loose edge that wraps around the front post. On each side, install     three forest green snaps to match the lower wall and three white     snaps to match the upper wall.

Step 10: Finish Front Panel

Follow these steps to finish the front panel:

-   1. On the wrong side of the Lower Front Panel (I), fold up a 3-inch     hem and baste. Sew with a straight top stitch. -   2. With right sides together, baste Upper Front Panel (H) to Lower     Front Panel (I). Sew with a straight stitch to make a ¾-inch seam. -   3. Use a hot knife and straight edge to trim ¼ inch from edge of     seam and seal the edges. -   4. Fold down the sealed ½ inch seam and baste in place. -   5. Sew with a double-straight top stitch. -   6. Along the side edges, fold ½ inch of the flap to the inside and     baste. Then, fold down ½ inch across the top and baste. -   7. To prevent the corners from curling, do the following:     -   a. Cut four 10-inch pieces of boning to prevent the corner from         curling. Cut the top at a 45-degree angle to create a mitered         corner.     -   b. On the wrong side of the panel, baste the boning to each         upper-corner, ½ inch from the fold.

[FIG. 10] Reinforced Corners on Front Panel

-   1. On the wrong side of the front panel, baste the fuzzy strip of     hook and loop to each side, ¼ inch from the fold and covering the     raw edge. Then, baste the remaining strip of fuzzy hook and loop     across the top of the panel. -   2. Sew with a straight stitch along both edges to attach the hook     and loop to the front panel along both sides and across the top. -   3. Place the front panel over the shelter opening and press to seal     the hook and loop in place. -   4. Install 11 turnbuckle fasteners through the hook and loop to     attach the panel to the apiary shelter across the top and on the     sides as shown in FIG. 11 .

[FIG. 11] Completed Apiary Shelter Observation Windows (Embodiment 3)

The following instructions explain how to fabricate the optional observation windows described in Embodiment 3.

[FIG. 12] Observation Window Placement (Embodiment 3)

The observation windows are installed before the walls are attached to the roof, as follows:

-   1. On Observation Window Flap (2B), fold under the seam allowance to     the wrong side along the right and left sides and baste. Fold the     top seam allowance down on the wrong side and baste. -   2. Cut three 18-inch pieces of hook and loop for the sides and top     edge of the Observation Window Flap (2B). -   3. On the wrong side of the Observation Window Flap (2B), baste the     fuzzy strip of hook and loop over the side seam allowances, close to     the edge. Then, baste the remaining fuzzy strip of hook and loop     over the top edge of the flap. -   4. Use a straight stitch to sew the hook and loop along the edges of     both sides and across the top of flap. -   5. With right sides together on the outside of the shelter, position     the unfinished edge of the flap ⅝ inch above the wall seam. Baste     the unfinished edge of the flap to the shelter, between the adhesive     dots on the wall. Sew with a straight stitch. -   6. On the inside of the shelter, baste the Observation Windows (2A)     to each rear side panel just above the lower wall seam and between     the adhesive dots. -   7. On the outside of the shelter wall, baste the scratchy side of     the hook and loop along both sides and across the top of the window. -   8. Before sewing, make sure that it aligns correctly with the fuzzy     hook and loop when the cover is closed. Then, use a straight stitch     to sew the hook and loop along the sides and across the top of the     window. -   9. Close the flap over the window and secure on the sides and top     with the hoop and loop. At the lower edge of the flap, sew a double     line of straight top stitches at the bottom edge going through the     flap, wall, and window. 

What is claimed is a form-fitted covering that converts a garden structure into an enclosed apiary comprising:
 1. One or more openings in the roof that can be configured to direct the flight path of the bees in different directions.
 2. Walls that create an enclosed six-foot flyover barrier on all sides.
 3. A sealed front opening that provides access for the beekeeper. 